If the wings are not yet split into flats and drumettes, split them: First, cut off the wing tip by wiggling your knife edge at the joint “soft spot,” then press down firmly. Next, split the wing at the "elbow" joint, cutting through the skin to separate the small drumette from the flat portion of the wing. This joint will require more pressure than the first—again, feel for the “soft spot.” If it's not separating easily, put the blade in place, then carefully but firmly hit the top of your knife to apply extra pressure.

Place the chicken wings in a ziptop bag. Sprinkle with the baking powder. In a small bowl, stir together the salt, garlic powder, onion powder, chili powder, black pepper, and cayenne. Sprinkle over the wings. Seal the bag and toss the wings to coat them evenly. Let rest while you prepare the smoker.

Prepare your smoker for indirect heat at 250°F—we use lump charcoal and apple wood chunks. Place the wings directly on the grill grates on the indirect portion, close the lid, and smoke for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, if your smoker also functions as a grill, crank the hot zone up to 425°F to crisp the wings. If your smoker does not also function as a grill, finish cooking wings on a gas grill, preheating it several minutes befor the wings finish their 30 minute smoke time so it's good to go. Cook the wings at 425°F, flipping as needed so they cook evenly, until they reach 175°F (this will only take a few minutes).

Remove the wing from the grill and let rest 5 minutes. Enjoy as-is or toss in warmed BBQ sauce or Buffalo sauce.