The Making of a Cookbook: Recipe Testing
Send all the wine and coffee. I’m in the final push to submit the manuscript (including all completed recipes, recipe intros, chapter intros, photos, everything) for my upcoming cookbook in just a few weeks (!!). It’s been a long, difficult, and rewarding journey getting all 125+ NEW recipes (as in recipes you can’t find on my blog or anywhere else) to this point.
While each phase of the book-writing process has its own unique challenges, unquestionably the largest, hardest, and most important part of them all is testing and perfecting the recipes. Put simply, recipes make a cookbook, and without a doubt, my cookbook has the best recipes I have ever created.
Creating recipes for a cookbook breaks down into a few phases. The first is recipe development—how I come up with ideas for recipes and turn those ideas into instructions, ingredients, and notes so that you can recreate them at home. I cover recipe development in this post, so if you haven’t read it yet, take a few minutes to pop on over and get up to speed. I’ll wait…
…Hi! Welcome back. Now that you’re all recipe development savvy, let’s talk about cookbook recipe testing.
This topic covers everything from how many times I test my cookbook recipes, to recipe fails, to how I grocery shop, to what happens to the leftovers, and more. I collected your questions on Instagram (you had a lot, including some that never occurred to me!), so I’ll be covering those here, along with my overall recipe testing process.
Let’s get to it!
Number of Times I Test a Recipe + Recipe Fails
HOW MANY TIMES DO YOU TEST YOUR RECIPES?
Three is my minimum, not counting the final test, which occurs when I cook the food for it to be photographed. Each recipe also is tested by two independent testers, bringing all of the recipes to a total of six tests per recipe, minimum.
In reality, most of these recipes I’ve tested far more than three times. I just wrapped up round six with a particularly stubborn layer cake, and a certain batch of cookies took 11 tries to get just right.
Once I’ve finished testing a recipe to where I think it is 100% ready, it goes through two rounds of independent reader testing. Each test involves a survey that the tester completes afterwards. I track all of the results in a giant detailed spreadsheet, then update and retest the recipes as needed.
DO YOU HAVE ANY RECIPE FAILS?
OMG YES. There was the cake that overflowed its pan (twice). The rice that was crunchy at first, then digressed to mushy, then to even mushier. The pasta salad that I thought would taste genius with diced pickles (it didn’t). The burger patties that refused to hold together no matter what I tried. My sister once watched me weep bitter, frustrated tears into a pan of failed brownies.
HOW OFTEN DO RECIPES FAIL?
It totally and completely depends. Many I’m fairly happy with on the first try (thanks to all the time I spend developing the recipe), but I still make them a few more times to make sure that a) the result isn’t a fluke, and b) I’m still as in love with it on the second, third, and fourth time as I was on the first.
HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH THE FAILURES?
I cry…sometimes (remember the brownies I mentioned above?). As time has gone on, instead of being demoralized, I’ve learned to accept failure as a part of the process. The flops need to happen to me so that they never ever happen when the book gets to you. I learn something new every time too. Often a simple tweak or two will fix the issue, and I’m smitten.
Even when something isn’t an all-out fail, I still test it again to make sure that the recipe isn’t merely good. The recipes need to be FABULOUS!
DO OTHER PEOPLE TEST YOUR RECIPES?
Yes! A willing, loving group of friends (mostly from college and a few blogger friends and high school friends), readers, and my two younger sisters all signed up to help test recipes. My two younger sisters and a few close friends have tested for me tirelessly. Their candid feedback has been vital to making these recipes their very best.
IS ALL THAT TESTING WORTH IT?
ALWAYS. I seriously cannot wait for you guys to try these recipes, because I know they are perfect!
Nerdy, Important Stuff: How I Keep Track of the HUNDREDS of Recipe Versions
HOW DO YOU FORMAT/PRINT/SAVE RECIPES DURING TESTING?
Every recipe goes through a few stages:
- I type it into a Word document, then print a hard copy. This I’ll use when I cook.
- I copy/paste the recipe from Word into Evernote (an online platform) and include the recipe testing date and test version (version 1, version 4, etc). I save and label every single test version a recipe goes through. This helps me track the different testing iterations so I can remember what I did last time. Also, it’s a BACK UP copy, which as you might suspect, I’m pretty obsessive about having.
- I plan out all of the recipes I want to test on a given day, then go on a massive grocery shopping trip.
- I test each recipe, working from the printed Word document. I look for errors and make notes as I adjust things. The paper gets VERY messy. Then, once I’ve completed my notes, I…
- Update Word doc with test results and changes for next time.
- Update Evernote with test results.
- Write the new test version for how I plan to make recipe next time (and record it in Word and in Evernote).
- Print a hard copy. Grocery shop. Repeat. Then repeat again.
- When I feel the recipe is 100% ready, I upload it to a completely separate Google document (which is stored in the cloud). This is the version I send to outside recipe testers, along with the survey.
BTW, I have a whole cabinet full of the original printed hard copies complete with food splatters and my messy notes just in case.
Real Talk: Groceries, Leftovers, and Dishes
HOW DO YOU COOK THAT MUCH FOOD (AND THUS, WASH THAT MANY DISHES)?
I have help. I could not have gotten through all this testing without the support of someone I call my “kitchen assistant” but whom I should really call my sanity manager/counselor/recipe whisperer, my dear friend Maggie.
When I was first starting on my cookbook, I posted on Facebook that I was looking for help with recipe testing. Maggie happened to see that post, reached out to me for the job, and now, a year later, I can’t imagine having written this book without her help.
On recipe testing days, Maggie comes over and we bust through an average of 10 recipes in one day. It’s long and exhausting but fun too. Maggie is a fabulous cook, so having her approval on the recipes has been vital to their success and my mental health.
WHAT DO YOU DO WITH ALL THE LEFTOVERS?
Recipe testing days = A LOT of leftovers. Maggie takes a good amount of them home to her family. I also plan for friends to come over for dinner (good friends who don’t mind the food stains on my shirt and the mess in the kitchen). This a) alleviates the supply of leftovers and b) provides additional, valuable feedback on how the recipes taste. I’ve received so much insight this way!
HOW DO YOU KEEP UP WITH GROCERY SHOPPING?
Intense planning. I use my hard copies of the week’s recipes to make a massive shopping list, which I inevitably leave somewhere in the grocery store mid-trip and have to track back down. I try to limit my grocery shopping to two well-planned trips each week.
Each grocery trip, I have two separate transactions. The first is for my cookbook and blog groceries (yep, remember that during all of this, I’m still testing and cooking recipes for my blog too!). The second is for personal, “non-business” groceries like coffee, basic things we eat for breakfast and lunch, or the rare non-leftover item we might eat for dinner.
HOW DO YOU STAY SO SKINNY?
On weeks when I’m testing a lot of recipes, especially dessert-heavy weeks that involve testing three batches of cheesecake in one afternoon (this was a very long day), I make sure to balance out the testing days by eating salads for lunch on the off days.
I also make exercise a priority (admittedly sometimes at the cost of sleep). I exercise an average of 5x per week. My workouts are a mix of HIIT (high-intensity interval training) and weight lifting.
Exercise has helped me keep the cookbook pounds at bay, and it is also an enormous stress reliever.
HOW ARE YOU ALIVE RIGHT NOW?
^^I legitimately received this question, and it’s one I’ve asked myself.
Writing a cookbook is a more than full-time job. So is blogging. Add in other details like finding time to work out, open the mail, spend time with friends/family/Ben, and remembering to cut my fingernails, and it makes for a less-than-ideal work/life situation.
In addition to staying active (see above), I can’t overstate how critical the patience and grace that Ben (my supporter #1), my friends, and my family have afforded me this year has been to my mental and physical health. I could not do this without their support. I also could not keep my blog running without the help of my communications manager, Caitlin, who in addition to dealing with my general stress level (no small task), keeps me, my blog posts, and my social media accurate and on schedule.
YOUR encouragement has also been vital. Every time I start to wonder why the heck I took on this crazy thing, I’ll receive a note or comment from one of you about how excited you are for my book or how much you enjoy my recipes.
Your continual visits to my blog are why I can support myself and why this book is even possible. THANK YOU. I promise you will love it and the wait will be worth it!!
Thank U, Next
WHAT HAPPENS AFTER A RECIPE IS FULLY TESTED?
Once the recipe is tested and 110% good to go, we move onto the PHOTOGRAPHY, which is a whole new beast! I’ll be covering that in a future post.
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MORE QUESTIONS ABOUT MY COOKBOOK? Feel free to leave them in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to address them in a future post.
Thanks for following along, and stay tuned for more details about my cookbook’s release, slated for early Fall 2020!
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